IF YOU ARE THE KIND TO WONDER why the phrase “chopped liver” bears negative effect, or find yourself disagreeing with its side-dish status – book yourself a seat at Metis.
At the French-Mediterranean restaurant, foie gras is the star. So much so that the French delicacy has an entire menu dedicated to it alone.
On it is a ‘Legendary Pan-Seared Foie Gras’. On appearance, it is not different from how the item is presented at other restaurants: a hot dish served with a berry compote. The difference lies within – in the temperature it is served in, in the precise tart-yet-sweet flavours of the fork-tender roasted apple and Morello cherry accompaniments, in the slice of foie that is perfectly singed on the surface yet meltingly soft on the inside.
Executive chef Dove Sudarsana has clearly put some thought into crafting well-balanced dishes that highlight the fatty goose liver, and this attention to detail is evident throughout the menu. Every foie gras dish in this restaurant nestled along Jl. Petitenget in Seminyak, Bali, hits all the right notes.
Take the crispy foie and yellowfin tuna sushi roll. “As foie gras is quite oily on its own, we pair it with the yellowfin tuna as this fish is much less oily than others,” shares Sudarsana. He also pan-sears the foie over extreme high heat to deliver a delectable crisp crumb on the exterior. Inspired accompaniments of wasabi mayonnaise, soy sauce and pickled ginger further add depth to the dish.
Sudarsana applies the same balancing act to a foie gras and cabbage tortellini, using the leafy pale-green vegetable as a foil to cut through the fatty liver. And lest you think these dishes are too homely, there’s the foie gras mille-feuille: goose liver pate layered with slivers of pears poached in white wine, served with glazed cantaloupe melons and apple vinegar sauce.
But the crème de la crème is the trilogy of foie gras. Sudarsana pulls out all the stops with this one dish, infusing foie with port wine, champagne, and cognac respectively. Each slab is served with different accompaniments. Fig jam and crumbled almonds for the port wine-laced version; mango coulis with the slice imbued with the distinct flavours of everybody’s favourite bubbly; and apple balsamic compote with a red wine reduction for the cognac-infused piece.
“Foie gras is very complicated to prepare,” shares Sudarsana. “One single wrong turn during the process, or a slight change to the temperature, and the foie gras will turn into (a pool) of oil.”
It is the true epicurean luxury that defines the “delicate” in the word “delicacy” – and there is no better place than Metis to appreciate this.